So at the moment, people are in awe of the area right now. Barely two weeks on and Ason is already back in business. The ancient wooden doors have once again been flung open and from spices, cooper to decoration pieces, the shops peek from every nook and cranny. Similarly, the six-road intersection at the Ason Tole’s main point has also begun flowing with masses of people. Often times, one can hear the disbelief in the pedestrians’ voices. They all ask the same question, How is Ason still standing?
Truth be told, even the residents cannot believe their luck. Anjana Tuladhar has been running her sari store for 12 years near the Ason area and she recounts the horrific 28 seconds.
“Saturdays are the busiest days for us. The earthquake couldn’t have hit the country at a worse time. There were shrill screams and cries throughout the marketplace. The panic here was almost palpable. All the buildings were shaking so violently and some people were actually running inside. They believed standing under the doorway might be safer. I myself stayed put. I think we were all struck with the same terrifying thought, ‘I’m in Ason!’ The realization alone was enough to make my life flash before my eyes,” says Anjana.
Ason is one of those endearing areas in the capital where every turn offers a glimpse of Nepal’s history. There are architectures dating back to the time of Prithivi Narayan Shah and Bhimsen Thapa. What’s more, the shops have been running for centuries. It is very common to find the stores and business being operated by the 3rd or 4th generations. In many ways, Ason has always held immense charm. But because of its over-populated houses, we have all known that the area has been one of great risk too.
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Basu Krishna Baidya remembers running around a far less congested gallis of Ason when he was five. For 50 years now, he has lived and worked there. He claims the building from which he runs his store had actually survived the 1990 BS (1934 AD) earthquake. Since he wasn’t born then, he had heard stories about it. Having experienced the recent shake though, he can’t comprehend how he still has a place to work from.
“There’s no logic behind it at all. Most of these buildings are older than I am. The entire marketplace should’ve collapsed. I was scared out of my wits. So I just sat right here on my stoop at the edge of my shop. Perhaps it has to do with the Kumari Mandir being nearby. A lot of folks in the area, including me, think that the Devi played a part in saving us all. Otherwise, I don’t see a reason how this main marketplace could be spared,” says he.
The surprise and relief among the frequent Ason visitors and the shopkeepers in particular are unanimous. However, the coast may not be clear just yet. Some further investigation reveals that the escape from the wrath of the Richter 7.8 magnitude earthquake was a very narrow one indeed. Just beyond the main market, the closely knit labyrinths of houses have suffered serious damages. According to official reports, 22 houses have collapsed so far and 250 have been deemed dangerous to be around.
Babu Raja Maharjan, from Ason’s municipal ward office, explains, “In some ways, this was inevitable. I wasn’t here on Saturday but I was nearby. I could hear the buildings crashing around the area. It was so sad but the fact is people have unfortunately been careless about their safety. The law states that a building in this area can’t be any higher than 45 ft or four a half storey. But it seems that nobody has abided by the rule. Some houses rise up to eight or even 11 floors. Plus, these extensions are carried out on top of old buildings. Most here didn’t take the risks seriously.”
Such gross and rampant negligence on the part of the public as well as the authority has cost many dearly. Several people’s whole life’s worth of investment and savings were wiped away in a matter of seconds.
Further, Deepak Kansakar, civil engineer from the Kathmandu Metropolitan Office who has been given the responsibility to check the Ason area, predicts that more individuals working and living there will have to deal with such losses.
“Each house at least takes an hour to assess. So, despite a hectic schedule, I haven’t been able to cover as many properties as I would like. From what I’ve seen, even the buildings that are standing still are at risk. There are so many houses in Ason that are packed together, and that might have saved them from falling apart. But the insides show how vulnerable they really are. To be honest, I haven’t been able to check the market area yet but I have a feeling there too will be buildings which will have to be torn down. Just because they didn’t crumble doesn’t mean they are safe,” he says.
When pressed, many shopkeepers at Ason confess that they have not had their buildings checked by the engineers yet. Regardless, some are brushing off concerns about the present state. They have faith in their ancient buildings as being strong enough to brave the
elements.
Then there are those who smile and question the alternatives: “After all these decades, where do we go? Is the government going to make arrangements?”
Along with its people, the future of Ason Tole itself is uncertain. The way things are going, there is a fair possibility that the thriving, culturally rich marketplace we once knew may not be the same again. The history that had woven its way into the core area may be tumbling soon. So, with one house at a time, we wait for the assessments as well as the future plans for Ason.
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