Teen Dewal: A Shiva temple with distinct identity in Kathmandu

By Sara Pahari
Published: February 27, 2025 03:00 PM

KATHMANDU, Feb 27: Amid the grand celebrations of Maha Shivaratri, one of Nepal's finest Shiva temples-Teku's  Bam Birbekateswor Shivalaya (Teen Dewal) temple, is nearly forgotten. Built in 1850 by Bam Bahadur Kunwar Rana, Teen Dewal's three-shikhara temple is an anomalous work of architecture in the banks of the Bagmati River, which expands to about 22 ropanis land. 

480813381_1043335647818149_6052683664701737015_n.jpgBam Bahadur built Teen Dewal from his own resources while acting as Prime Minister in 1850 during Jung Bahadur's European tour. The temple's construction symbolizes his political power and deep involvement in Nepal’s governance at the time. Upon Jung Bahadur's return, Bam Bahadur exposed a plot to overthrow him, earning his position again as Prime Minister. However, he remains a largely overlooked figure in Nepali history, overshadowed by Jung Bahadur. The temple is a rare three shikhara-style temples built one next to another, and there are three Shiva lingams, one each for Bam Bahadur's three sons. Vaskar Bikram Rana, Trustee of the Shivalaya, says, “No temple in Nepal employs such architecture, and Teen Dewal is thus a landmark.”

03122c1b-86d2-4d84-a30c-2e6f30afebdc 2.jpegDespite being privately owned, the temple is of great historical and religious importance. There are also shrines to Vishnu, Surya, Ganesh and Durga within the complex. It is visited by pilgrims on Shiva Ratri, but otherwise is not well known beyond its local community.

A struggle for conservation

Despite the Nepali government's recognition of its cultural significance, no substantial efforts have been made for its conservation. Vaskar believes the government has been unreasonably hesitant in providing support for its upkeep.

"The government should be spending money on conservation, and it isn't," he said, "Even the Bagmati River, once a vital lifeline for Kathmandu, remains neglected. While the temple employs two permanent staff members to clean the river near Teen Dewal, financial constraints have hindered broader conservation efforts. With the temple struggling to generate enough revenue for its own upkeep, large-scale restoration and river preservation projects remain nearly impossible without external support."

2015 earthquake and restoration efforts

The 2015 earthquake devastated Teen Dewal severely to the extent that it now urgently needs restoration. Restoration did commence, but largely relied on foreign donations and assistance. The Asian Development Bank (ADB) contributed quite a great amount towards the restoration of funds for the temple, but much remains to be done.

1829622b-b320-413f-99c1-dd6e5f859a12 2.jpegWith the urbanization of Kathmandu, places of heritage such as Teen Dewal can get lost in the process.  Vaskar Bikram Rana, who now oversees the temple, has bigger plans for the site, "Teen Dewal is not only a temple; it's part of our heritage. I am going to make it a museum or cultural center, where people can engage with history other than worship. Currently, it's shut down to the public while we organize something better-a place to honor its legacy."

Unknown-3.jpegHe wants to create awareness of the historical achievements of Bam Bahadur Rana, a person overshadowed by Jung Bahadur in history books. Rana calls upon government authorities, local communities, and conservationists to join hands in protecting the future of the temple, calling for urgent action to save its legacy for future generations.

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