Indeed, the advertisement I had seen many years ago while studying in Australia turned out to be true.
The trek to Rara Lake in Nepal’s remote north-west from Jumla was, in one word, “awesome.”
Heavy snowfall in January, just two days before our planned departure, ensured that a white carpet of snow would greet us at the airport in Jumla.[break]
Initially, we had planned to fly to Simikot in Humla and trek to Rara in Mugu District, then on to Jumla and fly back to Surkhet or Nepalgunj. We had planned it for over a period of two weeks.
The snow changed our plans, and after two days of hanging out in Surkhet, we flew into Jumla. Since we had little knowledge of the facilities available on the way, my trekking companions – French statistician Ivan and an Australian traveler – and I were equipped with the necessary gear, including a portable cooking stove, a packet of meat, dry snacks, and a tent.
(Photo: Tripple P Gurung)
We took off from Surkhet Airport in a Dornier around 3:30 pm, and 25 minutes later landed in Jumla, a small town which boasts a bank, Internet, telephone service and shops for last-minute shopping. The few lodges in town, ranging from Rs. 150 to Rs 500 per room per day, are a luxury compared to the basic accommodation that is available on the way to Rara.
The next morning, the two-hour walk from Jumla to Uthea along the river was easy. We felt fortunate that the motorcar had not yet arrived in this remote part of Nepal but soon would transform it into a dusty and difficult place to walk. It would, however, make life easier for the locals.
It was a splendid morning, and we munched on muesli for breakfast while watching the initial rays of the sun. A 20-minute walk later, the trail proceeded uphill past Patmara Village, and continued to climb. By the end of the day, we were tired and ready to set camp for the night.
But there was snow everywhere and no campsite in view. We continued to walk until Khali, a settlement of five houses, came into sight. It was an amazing view. A blanket of snow covered everything. I wondered what it would look like in summer when wildflowers would be in full bloom.
Hungry, I happily paid Rs. 70 for a plate of dal/bhat. As the food was being prepared, I chatted with the homeowner about his village and the surrounding areas.
Indeed life is hard. The crop does not last the whole year. Most people go to India as seasonal migrant laborers and return after six months, in time to harvest the crop. People are aware of the prospects of tourism but lack the resources to set up infrastructure. And there appears to be little support in developing infrastructure. It is a pity that locals have to travel to seek seasonal work in India when there are myriad possibilities in their own backyard.
The next morning saw us trekking downhill until we reached Nayasighat a little before noon. It was an ideal camping spot by the river surrounded by many trees for shade. We passed Kavre and Badr villages on the way and decided to camp at Chouta, a small village with electricity. A left turn and about three hours of trek would take us to the nearest motorable road.
We registered our names and destination at the local police station. Despite the lack of tourist infrastructure, some 180 trekkers had passed this way before us – an indication of tourism prospects here.
We passed Bulbule, where the Rara National Park office is situated, or supposed to be situated, but we didn’t see any sign of an office. We only came to know about it later after meeting a National Park staff after we had crossed the pass.
We were headed for Jhyari, the nearest village. But we lost track in the snow and reached Pina. It was a big village, and many of the locals expected us to have medicines. We were of little help since we were carrying only the most basic medicines meant for the journey.
At Pina, an egg cost Rs. 20, and you could buy a rabbit for Rs.700/800 and a chicken for Rs. 1,500-2500. But dal//bhat was still Rs. 80.
The next morning, we headed for Jhyari Village and began our walk uphill towards Rara. It was pleasant and relaxing walk through the forests, protected from the sun’s heat. We reached Rara Lake after five hours of walking. On our first glimpse of Rara through snow-topped trees, its water appeared blue and crystal clear. It was breathtaking. We stood gazing at the lake and its surroundings, our backpacks unremoved, wondering why I had not come earlier.
Suddenly, I felt refreshed despite the five-hour trek and began walking along the lake towards the other side where the one and only lodge is situated. The sun was setting and the colors were changing on the mountain range, reflecting on the lake. I took as many photographs as I could, afraid that I would never see such a sight again. The next day, however, the lake appeared as enchanting against the morning glory. A day later, I made my way back to Surkhet via Kalikot, determined to visit Rara again.
(Photo: Tripple P Gurung)
Fast facts
For those travelers pressed for time, one can fly from Nepalgunj or Surkhet to Talcha Airport and make the two-hour trek to the lake. A few hotels by Talcha Airport offer basic accommodation with meals.
Another option is to fly to Humla and make the 5/6-day trek to Rara Lake and walk to Jumla or Kolti Airport.
Everyday flights are available from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj. Price ranges from Rs 4,135 to Rs 5,985 per air ticket.
Thrice weekly – Monday, Wednesday and Friday – flights are available from Kathmandu to Surkhet on Sita Air; ticket price: Rs. 5,700 each.
Nepal Airlines conducts flights on Monday and Wednesday from Nepalgunj to Jumla. Ticket costs: Rs. 3,675; and from Nepalgunj to Talcha Airport on Thursday and Friday. Ticket costs Rs. 3,975.
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