Shiva's Night Out

KATHMANDU, Feb 22: Shivaratri – ‘the Night of Shiva’ - is observed on the fourteenth night of the dark fortnight of the lunar month of Falgun (February/March), the night Lord Shiva is said to have performed the dance of primordial creation, preservation and destruction - Tandava Nritya. [break]

Therein lies the allegory of Shivaratri, which over ‘time’, ‘hinduization’ and ‘intrepretations’ have subdued the real essence of the spiritual ‘Shiva-Shakti’ (male-female principle) culture, traces of which can be found in every religion and civilization.

Shivaratri is Nepal’s best known mela (religious fair) and draws tens of thousands of pilgrims, and, more importantly, sadhus (holy men) to Pashupatinath (Lord of Animal Life) Temple in Kathmandu, one of the subcontinent’s four great Shiva shrines.

During Shivaratri, hundreds of sadhus come from all across the subcontinent to lounge beside their dhuni (bonfire) in the extensive Pashupatinath complex. They represent various sampradayas (sects) and play a major role in the spiritual and social life of South Asia.

Very little is known about their origin, but historians and anthropologists have thus far concluded they represent the world’s oldest spiritual paths in the history of mankind. They are part of an ascetic tradition, renouncing their worldly lives to follow the path of self-denial.

Demonstrating a core of inner strength, sadhus astound onlookers with their agility in various yoga postures, and smoke ganja (marijuana) to help gain spiritual attainment, which has been a sort of sacrament among Shaiviites (devotees of Shiva) for centuries. They take turns with the chillum and circle around the dhuni, making an akhara.

The scene continues until the great midnight as pilgrims join for their share of prasad.

Here are some of the photos from the eve of Shivaratri, as our correspondent Arpan Shrestha spends time with the Holy Men.

The mark on the forehead represents the sect a sadhu belongs to. In this case, the sadhu represents Shree Sampradaya, under the Vaishnav sect. Other sects include Nath and Aghori, to name just two.

An Indian sadhu of the Vaishnav sect lounging beside his dhuni (bonfire). He´s currently undergoing an intense two hour long ritual called Chounsanth Dhuni Hawan to gain spiritual enlightenment. Of the four stages, ek dhuni, pancham agni dhumi, dwadarsh dhuni and chounsanth, he´s currently doing dwadarsh dhuni. The ritual begins each Magh Panchami and ends in Baisakh.

Following social pressure, naga babas cover themselves up with a little clothing or a loin cloth. Naga Babas are the extremes of the Shaiviites (devotees of Shiva), and renounce everything materialistic to such an extent they don´t even wear clothes.

A naga baba from Kedarnath smears himself with ash, impersonating Lord Shiva. A sadhu usually smears ash after a ritual bath in the river, but babas avoid the Bagmati now due to its polluted state.

Shivaratri is Nepal’s best known mela (religious fair). But as a result of poor management, the fair loses its charm each year, and fewer and fewer sadhus show up providing a stark contrast to management´s press releases.

Sadhu Prem Giri, a follower of Dattratreya, one of Shiva’s manifestations is a regular during Shivaratri. Post Shivaratri, this sadhu is planning his umpteen trek to Muktinath and other mountain pilgrimage sites in India.

Demonstrating a core of inner strength, sadhus practice yoga, including 84 asanas (positions), which demand tremendous agility.

To help gain spiritual attainment, sadhus smoke ganja. In the picture, Baba Balak Das, who is famous for his yoga skills, smokes a chillum.

(All Photos: Arpan Shrestha)