MYAGDI, Oct 6: Renowned record-holding climber Nirmal Purja, known as 'Nims,' has set a new record by becoming the fastest person to summit all 14 mountains over 8,000 meters without using supplemental oxygen.
On Friday, at 1:55 PM Nepali time, Nirmal Purja summited Shishapangma in Tibet, becoming the first climber in the world to summit all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen in just two and a half years.
Purja, who has been setting rare records one after another in the field of mountaineering, shared via WhatsApp that he successfully completed the ascent despite adverse weather conditions, along with his colleague Mingma Sherpa.
"We have successfully sent a new message in the field of mountaineering; it is an example that if Nepalis want to achieve something, they can," Purja said.
He also congratulated his friend Mingma for being supportive in every circumstance on his social media platform, Facebook. Purja and Mingma are also investors in the renowned company The Elite Exped.
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On May 7, 2022, climber Nims began this campaign by summiting Kanchanjunga without using supplemental oxygen. On May 27 of the same year, he ascended Everest, followed by Lhotse on May 28, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, and finally Shishapangma. Out of the 14 tallest peaks, eight are located in Nepal, while the others are in Pakistan and China.
After facing various media trials that aimed to tarnish the records in the field of mountaineering, this campaign was affected for some time due to adverse weather conditions and allegations of sexual misconduct.
Born in Dana, Annapurna Rural Municipality-3, in northern Myagdi, Purja had previously raised awareness about this campaign through his ascents of Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountain, and Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain, both located in his home district.
He also holds a rare record for climbing K2 in Pakistan, one of the most challenging and dangerous mountains for ascents. His company, The Elite Exped, has stated that he set new records during this climb, and further information about these achievements will be provided.
No mountaineer has yet succeeded in climbing K2, the world's second-highest peak, during the winter season. To date, the world's 8,000-meter peaks have been climbed more than 48 times.
In 2003, he enrolled in the British Army at the British Camp in Pokhara and received basic training knowledge from the Infantry Training Center located in Catterick, United Kingdom.
Corporal Nirmal went on to the Queen's Gurkha Engineers after receiving the Champion Recruit title in Basic Training. He successfully completed Basic Training with the Queen's Gurkha Engineers and was employed in the Painting and Decoration trade.
While working with the Queen's Gurkha Engineers, he also served as a commando in the British Army. Nirmal, who has worked as a mountain expert at the UK Ministry of Defence, led the successful ascent of Mount Everest by 13 British Gurkhas during the Gorkha Expedition 2017.
During the Mount Everest ascent, Purja successfully rescued another climber who was waiting for death. For his efforts, he received the prestigious MBE award from the British Queen. He is also actively involved in promoting the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountains in Myagdi.
Climbers from various countries have ascended these two mountains through his company. Alongside his climbing endeavors, he has also supported porters with housing and assistance in various educational fields.
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