But being greeted with host Raju KC’s big, welcoming smile allayed all sense of turmoil about the political situation about to explode in Pokhara, as we were ushered upstairs to the open plant-filled courtyard.
As you gaze out over the Annapurna Himal range, birds and hang-gliders reflecting in the misty Phewa Lake, cows grazing lazily on the grass below around young boys playing cricket, it all feels very tranquil.
It’s clear a lot of time and love has gone into the décor at Newari Kitchen. From the male and female Newari puppets dangling from the bathroom doorways, to the traditional carved dark wood ‘seeing eye’ windows and straw-thatched roof, to the buff meat drying in the immaculate kitchen as the didi prepares each dish with the utmost skill and care - eons of tradition are etched in every crevice of the Newari Kitchen.
But the vital questioned remained – would the food be any good? Would the Newari Kitchen live up to its claim of ‘authenticity’?
The menu includes a mix of cuisines, including some very appealing home-style western fare such as Vegetable Walnut Pate, Falafel and Grilled Fish. But it was Newari I came for and Newari I ordered. KC recommended the Non-Veg Newari Set Meal, a mini-banquet of many dishes including – Alu Chhwon (potato, bamboo shoot soup), Alu Tusi Achaar (potato, cucumber salad), Kaygoo (curried yellow peas), Musya (spiced, roasted soybeans), Dyaka La (soupy buff curry), Chhway La (marinated buff chunks), and Suku La Achaar (dried buff chutney), along with a choice of Haja (steamed) or Baji (beaten) rice.
Sara Holcombe
Strongly aromatic owing to its plentiful bamboo shoot flesh and fresh coriander leaves, full of white beans the Alu Chhwon was thicker than most of its counterparts, and given a gorgeous crispness when combined with the Baji.
It was only after tasting the Suku La Achaar that I was offered a rare glimpse of the quality of the buff drying in the kitchen. But sight unseen, its superiority was apparent upon first bite and one of the first items on the platter to rapidly disappear.
The only dish harder to resist was the Musya. Not the jaw-breakers dry-roasted soybeans can often be, yet retaining the all-important crunch; the Musya had an almost honeycomb-like texture. With so many mouth-watering options on the platter, it was hard to move on to sample something else, thoughts shared by review photographer and long-term Newari-food connoisseur Sara Holcombe. “Man, this is one of the best bhatmaas I’ve ever had.” It felt like a secret family recipe the didi was never, ever going to pass on.
About Newari Kitchen:
The Newari Kitchen is located in Camping Chowk, Lakeside 6 in Pokhara. A work in progress, owners Laxmi and Rajeev Shrestha have plans to expand. Besides the option to either lounge downstairs, or elevate oneself to the blissful garden patio the next level up, plans for the restaurant include more space devoted to dining, as well as a temple atop for those who wish to combine scoffing with spirituality.
Business Hours:
7.00am to 10.00pm (daily)
Contact - (+977 61) 550 423
Email - info@newarikitchen.com
Website - www.newarikitchen.com
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