The people who inhabit Kathmandu – or at least my family, friends and I – have unsuspectingly fallen into a habit of nit-picking and criticizing this city to its very bones. 

While I do believe a healthy dose of criticism and scrutiny is necessary for progress, I admit, at times, I think we all are guilty of being over-scrupulous.

In the midst of all this complaining, perhaps there are some good points of this city that are being overlooked. So here I am, doing what I am unaccustomed to: making a case for this city, instead of against it. Where’s the fun in always complaining, anyway? 

Thereby, I present the four reasons why I love the city and little nuggets of wisdom I gained from it. 

Torrential monsoon rain
Oh, monsoon rain how I love and hate thy. 
Haven’t we all had our moments when we are indoors, deeply gazing out of the window as the sky unleashes chaos onto earth? The wind is ferociously blowing, rain crashes down with the force of an anchor, and you just sit, soaking it all up – contemplating life and the world. It’s a feeling of surrendering to nature because there is no choice other than to accept the chaos, and simply let the rain pass. That cool ambiance complemented with a nice warm cup of hot beverage really does hit the spot.

Transportation
I can hear your sighs and nods of agreement on this one – it’s unanimous; the struggle of moving around Kathmandu, without any mode of private transport is quite the experience. “What could there possibly be to enjoy about overcrowded micros and buses that run suspiciously in the city?” you ask.
Well, for starters, they usually come with either Nepali or Bollywood music blaring on the speakers, and as well all know, there’s no agent more capable than music that can totally transform an experience. With the addition of music, the micro ride, you dreaded, will feel like a cool road trip across the country. On them, I’ve discovered some great songs, otherwise unbeknownst to me, and have also been swept into the past by some old classics. That, topped up with all the weird, quirky décor that these vehicles are decked out in, can make for quite the cultural experience. 

Occasional blackouts
There’s something about occasional blackouts too. It’s all in perspective – we can either choose to view it as a nuance or an opportunity to disconnect from the digital world that has consumed us. There is something so primal and raw about spending the evenings just in candlelight. Really, it is mindboggling how lengthy an hour feels when there is a blackout, you can truly, almost viscerally, feel every minute and second – it’s like squeezing a lemon to its very last drop, except that lemon is time.

Whenever the lights go out, my dad and I play candle-lit chess or other games. Thereby, I implore you to try – even if you have invertors or other backup options, to spend the night illuminated by the humble candle.

Temples
Upon entering a temple, one is swept away by the earthy scents intermingling with burning incense; there are candles flickering, bells ringing, people chanting and devotional songs going on in the background – it’s all so harmoniously chaotic. The air is almost magical. You usually have to take off any footwear and your sole is left to feel the cold, hard stone-paved floor beneath. Doing this combined with the atmosphere that is intensely charged by devotion and belief, proves to be quite the spiritual experience. It gives me, someone who isn’t the most devout person around, a sense of connectedness to something greater. It really is incredible to witness such an intense concentration of faith and belief in one place - that’s what fascinates me so much about them. Maybe this explains the holy feeling there is in the atmosphere surrounding temples – the culmination of the human spirit, perhaps?
And with that, I conclude my unorthodox list. Kathmandu has taught me to go with the flow, celebrate the human spirit and make the best of what I have.