The Trout Route
Description
Kathmandu – Kalanki – Thankot - Nagdhunga - Naubise - Galchi – Bahundanda - Devighat - Bidue - Trishuli Bazaar – Jurethum - Rani Pauwa - Kakani – Nagarjung - Kathmandu
Duration
6 to 7 hours. [break]
Distance
173 kms
Ride description
Before the morning traffic builds up in Kathmandu city, head off to Kalanki to Thankot and then to Nagdhunga. After registering the motorcycle, descend slowly on to a twisting road all the way to Naubise (26 kms from Kathmandu), a small roadside settlement. There is a fork on the road. The left trail leads to Daman, the straight one heads to Muglin and the other one goes towards Prithivi Highway. After a quick cup of tea, set off on Prithivi Highway and let the joys of riding begin.
The two lane highway enables one to enjoy the freedom of riding long stretches at a time without any obstruction or dense traffic. Pass by roadside villages that have sprung up after the completion of the highway and enjoy Nepali landscapes of undulating hills and valleys as we cross from one valley unto the next.
After 55 kms, you arrive at Galchi, a non-descript roadside village located at the cross section. The road on the right follows the Trishuli River into the Trishuli Bazaar.
The route from here is on a dirt track. The red clay makes a sharp contrast with the blue of the Trishuli River. The roads, at places, are full of pot holes caused by big trucks and busses that ply this route hence riding can be a bit difficult. A dust mask is essential because of dust raised due to constant traffic. There is an increase in the traffic of motorcycle riders, during holidays as many revelers are seen picnicking along the river banks.
The beauty of the area can’t be easily forgotten—the rolling hills, Trishuli River, ethnic villages and suspension bridges. At Bahun Besi, the small village of Kosh Kade, the annual bullfighting festival takes place during Maghe Sakranti festival that falls during January.
After about one and half of dirt track, at the end of this stretch of road is a steep, uneven descent till the suspension bridge. Enter a busy and populated settlement of Devi Ghat and then set out for another kilometer to meet the main road from Trishuli Bazaar. The road is black topped and riding along a path lined with pine trees for another 10 kilometers brings us to the famous Trishuli Bazaar and a great place for a much deserved lunch break.
After lunch, the 72 km ride to Kathmandu is an interesting one. Firstly, we retrace our ride for about 10 minutes through the hustle, bustle of Trishuli Bazaar and then take the road to Kakani. Firstly, it is a steep, winding descent but the scenery is fantastic. Deep forested areas, with clear flowing streams and waterfalls portray the beauty of Nepal. The Langtang Himal from “TADI” in the far distance is a beauty to behold. The riders wind their way up the narrow forested mountain road enjoying the view of the mountains, the colorful landscape and the small roadside settlements where time often seems to stand still.
As one comes to the top of the ridge at Rani Pauwa, there are signs that point towards trout farms which have been a blessing in disguise for the economy of the region. The cool mountain air, the cold waters of fast flowing mountain streams has been ideal for trout farming and people all the way from Kathmandu come here on weekends to enjoy this delicacy. The farms here supply the requirements of restaurants and hotels in Kathmandu City.
Deep fried trout with piro golbheda ko achar (tomato pickle) is just what the doctor recommends and is accompanied by a salad of fresh radish and carrots, another favorite from this region.
The route from Rani Pauwa slowly descends via Kakani to Balaju. The sunset over Mt. Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Dorji Lakpa etc. from Kakani is magnificent. Enroute, there are steep bends and descents hence riders need to be extra careful with the oncoming traffic from Kathmandu. The army check post below Nagarjung checks everyone for any illegal plants or animals. As one descends into the Kathmandu valley, view of the City, a cluster of dense concrete jungle greets us and we sadly mill into the traffic at Gongabu to slowly find our way home.
Highlights
Prithivi Highway, riding through lush green forested trails, Trishuli river, Suspension Bridges, Trishuli Bazaar, Trout farms, Sizzling sunsets from Kakani, Great views of Langtang (7205 m), Ganesh Himal (7429 m), Dorje Lakpa (6966 m).
Bare essentials
Motorcycle with a full tank of gas, helmet, gloves, water bottle, dust mask, small snacks, a little cash, tools and spares for essential repairs and a sense of adventure.
Difficulty level
4 out of 10. Suitable for all riders with some experience on long distance and off road riding.
Rabi Thapa is the CEO of Sacred Summits (P) at Baluwatar, Kathmandu. You can reach him at 4426695 & 4415769. For details: www.sacrdsummits.com
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