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A plate of history

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Photos: Pratik Rayamajhi
By No Author
In the busy streets of Indra Chowk in Kathmandu and Tangal of Lalitpur among others, certain shops sell attractive, shining utensils, brass plates being one of them. Binita contemplates buying them – chares or kaas ko thaal – wooed by the golden shiny metal. The shopkeeper, Abiral, seeing a possible customer eyeing the plates, beckons her towards the shop.

Abiral has been in the business of selling bronze and brass items along with other utensils for quite some time, and he has seen a steady rise in the demand for the brass plates, more so in the recent years. And why not? Traditionally, eating in brass plates was synonymous to wealth and affluence, as they cost more.


Although it isn't certain when people here started using brass plates, Satya Mohan Joshi, cultural expert, says that they have been around for a while. However, it was during the reign of King Jayasthiti Malla when people were divided in different castes and accordingly, into occupations, when certain families were given the responsibility of making brass plates.

"Brass plate in Newar language is called kaas and the people who made them were called kasaa. Back then in Kathmandu, the families that made the plates were called Kansakar, literally deriving the name from the name of the plates. In Lalitpur, they were Tuladhar and Tamrakar among others," he says.

Back then, it was really difficult to make those plates. Once the copper and tin were melted, it would be put in a clay pot to cool down. Then it would be immersed in water to further the cooling process. After a while it would be taken out, put in a big slab of stone, and then four strong men would have to get on the process of making the plates. That was the most difficult part. One of the four people would grip and keep the object moving as the other three hit it continuously until it was made into a flat surface. The precision and timing of the act would determine the smoothness of the plate's surface.

However, for the last three decades, machines have been used to flatten the material, but that is not the end of it. "Bringing it to a shape still needs manpower. The machines do only half of the work. A team of eight people produce around 50 kilos of plates every day, and one plate weighs from 600-800 grams, depending on the design," says Binod Tamrakar, owner of Tamrakar Utensils, a company that manufactures and sells such items, at the Patan Industrial Estate.

The plates come in different sizes and are used by different ethnic people. "Kanchan, which measures 10 to 11 inches are traditionally used by Chhetris and Bahuns. Jaisuri measures around 11 to 12 inches, and are used by Newar and Thakali people, although these days, they are called Thakali thaal, as you can find them in Thakali eateries around town. Likewise, if you go to Dharan, you will find that people there use a different kind of brass plate. In Bhojpur, it is called Manipur, and in the Western region, they use the one called Hattipaile," he says.

It was considered good to eat in brass plates because it kept the food pure and warm. "It is said to absorb the poison and change color if there is any in the food," he says. For that matter, there is a long-standing tradition of serving food to new mothers in a special thick bowl called Kyanyagu baataa, literally translated to bowl made of brass.

Like all things, brass plates found its way in the roots of the cultural rituals and rites as well. In many of the karma kandas performed in an individual's life, brass plates played an important role. For example, it was considered auspicious and healthy to feed a child from such utensils the first time he/she had rice. Hence in the rice feeding ceremony, these items would be of great

importance.

Similarly, in Newar culture, when a couple gets married, thyaa bu:, a traditional dish of various sweet and savory items, is served in the brass plate as a part of the marriage ceremony. Eating from the plate is supposed to be auspicious; hence they are an integral part of the ceremony. Even in the brata banda ceremony of a boy, performed when he hits puberty, a new brass plate is required to receive the cut nails and hairs by the aunt of the boy.

Brass plates are considered so important, that a person is not supposed to eat from them if his/her parents died. "It is mainly because brass plates are considered luxury items," says Suresh Man Lakhe, an officer of Patan Museum Development Committee in Lalitpur. "Because they are easily breakable and expensive, people had to be very careful while using them, and because of that, it was mainly taken to be an item used by rich people," he says.

These days, the price of one brass plate starts from Rs 1,000 and can go up to Rs 2,000 or more, depending on the size, weight, and design, the more intricate the design or heavier it is, the costlier such a plate is. It was probably from there, that people today have given brass plates so much importance, and started using it as a symbol of respect towards guests. "Since the last few years, many hotel owners and people in the tourism business have been using them to serve food to their guests," he says.

Lakhe, who has spent a number of years in the tourism industry, also adds, "In European countries, steel plates are used for the prisoners, and so, lately, there have been a high demand in the brass plates, as they are considered as a sign of respect. Tourists feel happy and honored to be eating in the yellow plates and the people in the business are more than happy to oblige them."

Perhaps for the same reason, brass plate manufacturers are enjoying a boom in their business. Arjun Tamrakar, owner of Gujeshowori Rolling Mills Pvt. Ltd. in Balaju Industrial District in Balaju, says that compared to 15 years ago, there is a ten times more demand of these plates. "As the demand grew each year, the price has also increased. But it is interesting to note that the rise in the price has not affected the demand. Instead, it also keeps on increasing," he says.

Unfortunately, though brass plates have enjoyed popularity in the recent years, the original makers are no longer in the business. Like most of the people, they have discontinued their traditional profession in the favor of some other jobs. "I think you won't find any people who still have the skills and the patience to make the plates," says Arjun. However, there are still people who get the work done. Of course it is very difficult to make these materials by hand, but then again, it has a very good resale value, unlike melamine or glass plates. "It can be exchanged or recycled," he adds.

In the recent times, these traditional utensils are undergoing a revamp. Though, like Arjun said, the original makers are no longer in business, it doesn't seem like the tradition of using these plates will fade away. Quite the contrary, actually. And given the benefits and regality that come with these utensils, the tradition is something we should all strive to preserve.

sachimulmi@gmail.com



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