It had been just over 48 hours that our country was rattled by an earthquake of 7.6 Richter scale. By then its devastating consequences had been broadcasted around the world and discussions were rampant on social media. Even the Nepalis who were too terrified to leave their temporary camping sites had fully come to terms with the scale of damage that Nepal as a whole, and Kathmandu in particular, had suffered.
The realization shook many living in the capital to their core and its direct consequence was foremost clear as day on the Prithivi Highway.
I should know because I was there.
27th April 2015, 2:20pm.
The traffic was terrible. A couple of kilometers ahead of Mugling, a dry landslide had caused a major blockage on the already narrow single route in and out of Kathmandu. On the way back from Bharatpur, we waited for almost three hours for the bulldozers to clear the debris. We were the lucky ones. Some passengers had been stuck in traffic since early morning. Fortunately though from 2:20 pm onwards there began a steady trickle of vehicles.
Those returning to the capital were left wondering if they were headed in the wrong direction. A mass exodus had clearly begun. There were buses, trucks, mini vans, taxis, open jeeps all crammed with Kathmandu dwellers desperate to leave the city. Practically every single vehicle was overflowing with passengers.
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Ravi Narayan and his family had never seen anything like it before. Having lived near the Thankot checkpoint for almost a decade, he is used to vehicles passing by but this was unprecedented.
“Even Dashain travels was nothing compared to the number of people leaving Kathmandu today. I was just talking to people who work at the checkpoint and they are equally surprised. The afternoon has only just begun and I can guarantee that more than 400 vehicles stuffed with double the number of people have passed through. Is Kathmandu really in such a bad shape?” he inquired.
It might have barely been two days since disaster struck but the urgency on the Prithivi Highway that day was almost palpable. People were sitting on hoods of trucks, hanging from the back of jeeps and standing squeezed in between bus seats. While they seemed to have packed light, the ones with families had gathered all their members for the trip. This meant several wailing toddlers and confused children were also a big part of the chaos.
Further, another noticeable factor was the overwhelming number of people from the Tarai regioneager to flee the capital. Sundar Chaudhary explained, “After witnessing the devastation that the earthquake has left behind, I’m scared. It’s naturally the same case with many. I had a narrow escape near Indra Chowk on Saturday. My family back home is terrified for me. They insist that I return immediately. I didn’t even have to ponder over it. To go back home is the best decision rightnow.”
Crouching at the back of the open mini truck, his cousin Ramesh Chaudhary reasoned that his decision was built around the uncertain future for all immigrants. “Our sole purpose for coming to Kathmandu was to work. My cousin and I sell fruits and vegetables on our bicycles. But because of the earthquake we don’t know if we can maintain a steady supply of goods. Besides, there is bound to be shortages of water and food. Diseases might spread. As it is our apartment walls were left with some nasty cracks. Living conditions in Kathmandu is going to be very difficult. The upcoming days are precarious, especially for those who are not originally from there.”
So the motivation to leave behind the bruised capital was strong immediately following the natural disaster. Some claimed that they had intentions to return. There were many who were only traveling to check up on their relatives and family houses but the majority were keen to put a good distance between them and Kathmandu especially since there was no predicting when the aftershocks and tremors would end.
“Even while we were trying to rent this taxi yesterday, there was a big jolt at around noon. Then there are these constant tremors. Lately I feel like the earth is moving even when it is not. I have been a nervous wreck since Saturday. My husband is abroad. I absolutely need to get out with my kids. We are heading to Chitwan where we have some family,” shared Kavita Gurung.
Regardless of news on radio and TV repeatedly informing people that there was a heavy traffic on the Prithivi Highway due to a dry landslide near Mugling, vehicles kept pouring in that day an it did not stop. By four in the afternoon the jam had extended to more than seven kilometers. There was a good chance that some passengers would not reach their destination before midnight but they seemed more than happy to suffer that fate than what might befall on Kathmandu next. Thatday was officially the beginning.
So far it has been reported that more than 100,000 residents have fled the capital. The officials estimate that the number could easily reach 300,000. The recent clashes with the riot police as the government failed to meet its promise of free transportation illustrates the level of persistence that people have to make a quick exit out of Kathmandu. Even just yesterday there were people running about New Baneshwor, Koteshwar, Bus park and other random locations where authorities were rumored to be arranging vehicles to leave Kathmandu.
While many cite fear of lawlessness, spread of diseases, lack of sustenance as some of their main motives for fleeing the city. There are also those who have no choice. Shekhar Tamrakar was busy packing his families bags yesterday at their makeshift tent. “There are no tickets,” he said while shoving his son’s jacket into his backpack. “We just have to reach there in time. The thing is I don’t know which location can guarantee a vehicle. My neighbor had to return back today from New Baneshwor because she didn’t get a seat. It’s not that I want to leave but the room I was renting is now destroyed. Where am I supposed to take my family? We are going back to our village. ”
Everybody have their own reasons. But the fact remains, the city that once held a lot of attraction as well as possibilities for many just a week ago is now something they fear.
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