You may have noticed that eye makeup can completely transform the way one looks. A good eye makeup can change the shape of your eyes and enhance how your face looks in a way no other makeup trick can. However, applying makeup on the eyes is not an easy tack.
“Eyes makeup is a difficult art but it can be made simple if you know the basics,” says Nirmala Balame of Trendsetters Unisex Hair and Beauty Studio.
We quizzed Balame on eye makeup to find out how we can perfect the basics and flatter our eye shape and face.
Understanding your eye shape
It is extremely important to know your eye shape before applying any kind of shadow. “There are six main types of eye shapes – almond, round, upturned, downturned, mono lid and hooded,” says Bamale. To recognize your eye shape, you first need to see whether you have crease above your eyes or not. “Crease is an indentation right at the top of your eyelids. If you do not have any crease then you have mono lid eyes,” she adds.
The second step is to notice if the outer corner of your eyes is lifted up or down. “If the outer corner of your eyes is lifted up then you have upturned eyes. On the other hand, if they seem to be bending down, then you have downturned eyes,” explains Bamale.
In some eyes, the crease of eyelids is not visible at all. Those eyes are called hooded eyes. In round eyes, the iris looks more upward when you open your eyes. An almond shaped eye has the iris right at the center of the eyelids.
Makeup tips for your eyes shape
“This eye shape is my personal favorite. All you need to do here is accentuate the shape of your eyes,” says Bamale. According to her, priming your eyelids is important before applying any eye shadow. This helps your shadow stay intact.
“You may use a light eye shadow and apply it from your eyelash line to your brow bone. Then, choose an eye shadow of your choice and run that along your crease. Applying more color on the outer ‘v’ of your eyes helps in intensifying the almond shape of your eyes,” explains Bamale.
Next, to define the natural curves of almond shaped eyes, make a small flick at the end. Then, connect your eyeliner to the inner corner of your eye with the help of a thin line. The little flick at the end just helps you enhance the beauty of your eyes. You may also use a pencil liner and apply it on the outer corner of your lower eyelids. This helps in accentuating the shape of your eyes even more.
Firstly, use a medium colored shadow on your upper eyes. Then, add more color to the outer ‘v’ of your eyes to elongate your eyes and make it look more almond shape.
“Most people who have round eyes like elongating them and making them look more oval,” says Bamale. For that, all you need to do is make a longer flick at the end of your eyes. “While applying the liner, make sure you only make a thin line. That way, your eyes will not look too big and the liner will give it a definite shape,” she explains.
Upturned and downturned eyes
“For a downturned eye shape, you need to apply highlights above the eyelids. The main purpose of our makeup here is to visually lift your eyes,” says Bamale. “Hence, using a darker color on the outside corners of the eyes blending them upwards to give it a winged shape will do the trick,” she adds. Then use liquid eyeliner to give your eyes some shape. Make a thin line towards the inner corner of your eyes and make it thicker as you move out. Lastly, take the eyeliner upward in a winged shape.
On the other hand, for upturned eyes you can go in for winged eyeliner but do not pull the liner out too much. Apply a light eye shadow on the upper lid. You can finish this look with two coats of mascara to make your eyes look bigger and rounder.
Mono lid and hooded eyes
According to Bamale, applying eye makeup on mono lid and hooded eyes are similar. Firstly, you need to apply light eye shadow from the lash line to the crease of your eyes. “For hooded eyes, make sure you bring the eye shadow color above your hood. That way, even when your eyes are open, your eye shadow is visible. Those who have mono shaped eyes can just apply the shadow till the center of the crease,” says Bamale.
The next step for hooded eyes is to take a darker colored eye shadow and apply it above your lash line. Then, take an even darker color eye shadow and apply it above the previous one. Do not forget to blend both the shadows gently.
“For mono lid eyes, you need to create a crease with contour colors. Make sure you make a ‘v’ at the end of your eyes and slowly bend the color towards the inner corner of your eyes. For the rest of your eyes, you can use a lighter eye shadow,” says Bamale.
“Applying eyeliner on these two shapes can be a little tricky. Use a dark pencil and make thick lines both above and under your eyes. Also, apply some mascara to give the illusion of thicker eyelashes,” she concludes.