For if we bridge our minds across ten centuries of time into the past from now and try to imagine where and who each one of our particular ancestors was then, we couldn’t even begin to think in terms of who we culturally and racially define ourselves as now, yet we do continuously identify ourselves with the society in which we were born.[break]
I’m heavily pondering on this matter as I drive the 70 kilometers to Rishikesh from Devprayag. Ganga’s waters have become large and mature as she reaches Rishikesh, where her main flow is more than 100 meters wide. Built up at the place where Ganga winds her way out of the Shivalik Range of the Himalayan foothills, the town gently fans out into the flatlands of the North Indian plains.
Rishikesh is the first major spiritual and commercial centre situated on the banks of the holy river and the gateway for pilgrimage to the famous Char Dham – the “holy circuit of four places.” One of the most prominent religious leaders in modern times, the Adi Shankaracharya traversed this land in the 9th century AD and his trail was later codified into this great pilgrimage. Ever since, as the first destination on a list of holy shrines and pilgrimage sites stretching across the lofty Himalaya, Rishikesh has been a steppingstone on the path to the actual four of the Char Dham, which are Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamnotri.
Since time immemorial, it’s believed that the wisdom of Yoga emerged from the spiritual practice of ancient Himalayan sages, and over the ages, saints have meditated at this peaceful spot of Rishikesh with the soaring mountains looking down upon the sacred Ganga flowing beside it. Authentic principles lie at the heart of these traditions, and are still retained today in unbroken lineages from masters to disciples throughout the ages.
I’m coming to Rishikesh to meet a great saint whose ashram is situated nearby the famed Laksman Jhula. Legends state that Lord Rama did penance here at this spot for killing Ravana, the demon king of Lanka. At this point, his younger brother Lakshman crossed the river using a jute rope bridge that was eventually replaced by an iron-cable suspension bridge in 1889. After it was washed away in the 1924 floods, the present bridge was built in 1939. The bridge itself and the area that has grown up on each side of it have become a major attraction for tourists.
After a hearty puri-and-sabji breakfast at a nearby restaurant, I follow the twisting road around to the side of the bridge to the Sachcha Dham Ashram. Having been greeted by a friendly foreign lady, I’m taken inside the block where the sadhu lives and am asked to wait a while as he’s still having his breakfast. I thus spend a few moments to recap on what I’ve heard about Rishikesh so far.
According to mythology, the sage Raibhya Rishi sat on the banks of Ganga and performed severe penance here. He was rewarded when Lord Vishnu appeared in the form of Hrishikesh, meaning ‘Lord of the senses,’ which thus gives the place its present name. For one who can go beyond the captivation of the senses that drive and cause us to become enslaved to our habits that only lead us to have endless sufferings and become aware of what effects they are producing upon the mind conquers the entire realm of existence.
After meeting the delightful Maharishi, whose 90-year-old frame is delicate yet strong, and whose manner is peaceful with a depth of realization found only in one who has spent years practicing a pure living, I decide to walk along the path that parallels the river away from the motor road towards Ram Jhula, another iron suspension bridge that was built in the 1980s, located around a mile downstream from Laksman Jhula. At 140 meters in length, Ram Jhula is a real landmark of Rishikesh’s Muni-ki-Reti District.
Along this track, there’s a colony of huts for yogis who, for a small sum of money, can purchase the right to a place to live and meditate for life. True to its history, it’s around Rishikesh where many rishis, munis and sadhus – both famed and hidden – stayed and practiced various types of spiritual worship, both severe penance and meditation, throughout the ages. For it’s believed that meditation in Rishikesh brings one closer to the attainment of moksha, as does a dip in the holy river Ganga that flows through it.
It’s a pleasant walk, and halfway I stop for a cup of tea at Chai Baba’s stall. He’s famous for a good cup of traditional Indian milk tea and there’s always a cabal of people sitting on the cut-down trunks of old trees, now made into seats, talking about the width, height and depth of the universe. Chai Baba narrows his conversation and tells me about the recent acclaim of Rishikesh as “The Yoga Capital of India” and some people even say “of the world.” Having earned its name as such, the town is home to many institutions for the study and practice of yogic disciplines, and each year thousands of spiritual tourists come here seeking a renewed path of life.
However, Rishikesh isn’t only a spiritual seeker’s paradise but has also developed an interesting aside, as the many rapids that exist on this stretch of the Ganga have caused whitewater rafting to become quite the sport for those who are looking for adventure.
Just beyond Ram Jhula, an evening aarti puja takes place everyday at the Parmanath Niketan Ashram on the banks of the Ganga. The kids from the ashram school take their place upon the steps of the ghat and perform the daily worship along with pandits, yogis and bystanders.
The rest of Rishikesh sprawls out further along the river, the most famous spot being the Triveni Ghat that’s located at the other end of the town from Lakshman Jhula. It’s the confluence of three holy important rivers – the Ganga, the Yamuna, and the Saraswati – the last an ancient river that is no longer.
I went to take a dip at this place, as it probably is the most revered and sacred bathing place in Rishikesh. According to Hindu tradition, it’s believed that those who bathe here will attain moksha or salvation, as the water in this spot has the power to purify all past sins. The river bends around two loops and is fast flowing with strong currents. Staying close to the shore, I relish her cool waters. Yet, having dried and put on my clothes to keep warm, I’m pleased to be out of her turbulence and enjoy a hot cup of tea from a local stall.
From here, Ganga’s path leads her completely out of the mountains and into the plains where her major work of depositing the fertile alluvial muddy soils of her higher mountainous course onto the agricultural basin of North India will begin.
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