As Nepal’s own answer to Spain’s La Tomatina, Bisket jatra observed in Bhaktapur and Madhyapur Thimi has its special place among various popular jatras. Distinguished by a pageant marriage between vermillion and Dhimay-the most popular among Newar drums, Bisket often compels local spectators to leave the comfort of their balcony and join the youthful jubilation sweeping down the streets.
While Bisket is observed for nine days in Bhaktapur, it lasts only three days in Thimi where it is popularly known as Sindur Jatra or even Dyo Jatra. Whatever may be its length, the main day of Bisket coincides with the new year of Vikram Samvat. This overlapping of the end of a calendar year with Bisket jatra is unique among Newar festivals, since almost all other local festivals are observed according to Nepal’s original lunar calendar, Nepal Samvat. ‘In fact, medieval inscriptions verify that until the middle of Malla regime, Biska: jatra, as it was originally called, used to be celebrated based on Nepal Samvat. Nevertheless, the core feature of the celebration is the same—erecting of the pole’, says Subhash, 30.
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At Bode, north-west from Bhaktapur, another dimension is added to Bisket: ‘Jibro Chhedney Jatra’ where a brave man pierces his tongue in public. It is believed that good things will follow in his life that year.
Today, Bisket is not only celebrated by fun-loving youth from Kathmandu and Patan, it is even organised in social media outlets as a Facebook event! For Bikesh, 25, jatras are more fun because other festivals are just about feasts. He says, ‘Boys have great fun dancing and rejoicing, while girls love watching it!’ ‘During late evenings, senior male members of each family join the procession with a chilakh (oil-filled lamp) which I really enjoy watching’, says Suren, 25.
For local youth, it is often a matter of identity, as for them it is the biggest event of their place for the year. Naturally, they take pride in being a part of it, and also feel a kind of responsibility towards it. ‘Because it is broadcast in national television, (Bisket) Jatra is a good opportunity to make the rest of our country aware of Nagadesh, my locality’, says Vikram, 19.
While Jeevan, 25, gets inspired by the teamwork of hundreds of people, required to carry the khatt (chariot), it is the enlightened sight of Siddhi Ganesh and a procession in which all age groups participate with vigour that excites Prabin, 25. ‘Khatt, chhatra (decorated tall umbrella), music, color and crowd, that’s what fascinates me’, says Bigyan, 19.
It is quite interesting to appreciate how Nepali youngsters, despite their attraction to modern lifestyle, have clung to their roots when it comes to traditional events as fun-filled as Bisket jatra. Nisha, 25, confesses in her blog, ‘Even more participation of youth in continuation of these cultures makes me proud.’
Nevertheless, there is a dark side to the jatras, which is reducing with every passing year but still present—the violence during jatras! It would be wrong to attribute the violence to typical Nepaliness or even youth aggression. But thankfully, most educated youngsters of today believe that drinking alcohol during Bisket jatra leads to fights more often than it leads to fun. ‘Some people just drink too much to celebrate rather than enjoying the jatra’ says Subin, 30.
Security is of paramount importance in public processions anywhere in the world. People drink and fight even in London’s Notting Hill Carnival, considered one of the best in the world. Comparatively, Bisket organisers get away with less bad luck even though they take the least security measures. This is partly because local people have a feeling of responsibility towards the jatra, unlike other carnivals around the world which are mainly attended by outsiders.
For Shova, 24, the culture of Bisket is important as it is connected to her birthplace, and it is something she grew up with. Bikesh is of the opinion that for anyone brought up in Bhaktapur/ Thimi, it is impossible to ignore Bisket jatra. ‘I started getting involved in the jatra when I was 10 years old’, he recalls. ‘I have enjoyed it for more than a decade, and it is still not enough for me’.
The experience of Bikesh and many other youth suggest that though our youth may not be happy with the country’s prevailing systems, they definitely like to see their heritage the way it used to be. To whatever depth they might have understood their culture, for most of them it is a matter of pride.
One important part of this study was to explore role of youth in a cultural event like Bisket jatra. Results suggested that the youth are keen in not only taking part in such activities, but also planning and organising them. Owing to the fact that the culture of jatras has been an integral part of their growing up in and around the boundaries of Bhaktapur, the youth showed remarkable familiarity with the inherent problems of a mass cultural function, and also suggested a number of solutions.
In Prabin’s opinion, youth should play a leading role in such festivals and control the overall goings-on. ‘We should promote our core cultural values and not remix the (in)sensitivities of different worlds’, he suggested. ‘Promoting personal business during the jatra is a loss of originality for our culture’, he added.
‘Bisket jatra is a festival of chariots which are very heavy and cannot be carried by old people. Youth can contribute the most in managing the crowd. Also, only the youth can promote it well’, says Bikesh.
The youth have a remarkable familiarity with the inherent problems of a mass cultural function like Biske jatra.
‘Earlier, people from rest of the country used to associate Bisket jatra with just Bhaktapur. Today, due to media, they have been enlightened’, he analyzes the changing situation. ‘Now they know that Thimi and Bhaktapur observe their own Bisket jatras. This has been brought about by youth participation to promote the jatra in Thimi’, he recounts.
‘Youth must participate in cultural events like Bisket jatra not only to preserve them, but also to spread the message of unity, love, devotion and cultural practices. At the same time, we should not hamper another’s interest and dignity’, says Jeevan. ‘Moreover, youth can volunteer for social services like security, providing first aid and drinking water, running information centers, etc’, he adds.
Unlike my assumptions, it turned out that Bisket was not just a matter of fun for the youth, it was also a matter of pride for those who were involved. Having met such responsible youth of our times, I cannot help but believe in a much better future for us.
The author is a London-based computer programmer and artist involved in the preservation of Newah culture in the UK.
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