The real adventure started as soon as we reached the huge and crowded New Jalpaiguri train station in West Bengal. For me, it was no lesser interesting than watching a Johnny Depp movie because the station was a fabulous place to be in. Due to the late arrival of Abadh Assam Express, I got an opportunity to watch life in the train station for two hours.
The crowded station platform was a mini India itself. I saw Buddhist monks, Muslims with long beards, sardarjis, Christian nuns with students probably on an educational tour, Hindu Brahmin priests offering ‘prasad’ and asking money in return and a wide diversity of people. Many families were enjoying picnics while waiting for the train to arrive, with bed sheets spread on the floor and a few packets of potato chips and packed juice. It was a sight to see. After this amusing episode, our train arrived -- a long fierce sounding metallic beast loaded with thousands of people. We too got in and settled down. The soothing ‘chug chug’ noise made by the train’s wheels soon lulled me to sleep like a baby dozing in its cradle right until we reached Guwahati.
The main reason for visiting Guwahati was my mother’s ‘bhakal’ i.e. her religious vow, to visit goddess Kamakhya and get her blessings. Eighteen years had passed since she’d made the vow and thus it was a very special occasion for her. After resting for a while at the hotel on the first day, we headed off to Kamrup, a small hill, where the goddess resides inside her temple. It was the day of Vijaya Dashami and the flood of worshippers I saw in the waiting line made me dizzy. A local punda (priest) later explained that about 10,000 devotees visit the temple on a single day during important Hindu festivities. We almost relinquished the hope of being able to get a glimpse of the goddess. However, we were aware that upon paying Rs 100 per person, we could get to stand in a shorter line. Even then we had to wait for four hours with empty stomachs. Then, we finally got to enter the temple. The temple is adorned by a beautiful dome and is magnificently carved with ancient architectural symbols, images and motifs. The idol of Goddess Kamakhya is placed in a chamber which is almost below ground level. The whole thing evoked an aura of a small medieval palace.
The materialistic in me was shaken to the core upon witnessing thousands of people offering prayers, their extreme devotion and faith. After all, I thought, people really do believe in the Supreme Being. Their faith is not just a fleeting fancy; it is real as far as believers like my mother are concerned. Earlier I used to think – “Who would believe ridiculous stories like the earth being formed by body parts of two demons?” However, when it comes to religion, reason is not necessary. If religious beliefs can uphold public’s confidence and provide them comfort, then why should reason be sought? Reason only kills one’s belief.
My visit to Guwahati also offered me an important opportunity to get an insight of the people of Nepali origin residing in India. A local politician of the Nepali community was a bit offended when I asked him about their ‘Nepali status’ in India. He preferred to be addressed as a ‘Gorkha’ and not a Nepali. He said that even after residing in India for generations they were still treated as foreigners or Nepalis. Gorkha is the umbrella identity under which all sub-identities of their community fit in. Brahmins, Chettris, Gurungs, Newars, Thapas are collectively referred to as Gorkhas. Then he proceeded to point out the difference between Gorkhas and Nepalis. Gorkhas are legitimate citizens of India and they are proud to be so. Nepalis are those who have come to India from Nepal to work and earn money. I was taken aback by this stark revelation. When some quarters in Nepal are dreaming about ‘Greater Nepal’, Gorkhas of India are not even prepared to be addressed as Nepalis. I am sure they have their own logic. However, I couldn’t help recalling the hundreds of thousands of votes that was sent from Nepal in favor of Prasant Tamang, a Gorkha contestant of the Indian Idol program because he happened to be a fellow Nepali.
I realized that the ground reality was very different. Later, I also realized that the struggle for identity of Gorkhas in India corresponds well with the struggle of Madhesis, Limbus, Tamangs, Tharus and other ethnic groups in Nepal. I guess people everywhere want an official recognition of the community they belong to.
Sitting on the bank of Bramhaputra was truly surreal. Watching the majestic river flow by with its waves sparkling and small motor boats traveling on it towards Peacock Island is a treat for nature lovers. Bramhaputra has compassionately bestowed her beauty upon the fortunate people of Guwahati. I watched birds flying above it, imagined schools of fish vanishing into its enormous body of water under the clear blue sky and wished I could too. Nevertheless, the moment was not to last for long. I was soon back in my own Nepal.
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