Indra, the God of rain, was once captured in Kathmandu Valley while stealing a particular flower for his mother, Dagini. He was then imprisoned so Dagini had to reveal his identity. Following the revelation, his captors gladly released him but the Indra Jatra festival celebrates this remarkable achievement (villagers don't capture a real god every day of the week). In return for his release Dagini promised to spread dew over the crops for the coming months and to take all those who had died in the past year back with her to heaven. The Indra Jatra festival thus honors the recently deceased and pays homage to Indra and Dagini for the coming harvests.
Every year the eight days of festivities is highly anticipated by the locals. Considering the main day when the chariot begins its journey from Hanuman Dhoka used to be (and is) an official holiday, people thronged the Basantapur area to witness the celebrations along with the core Newar community, Goddess Kumari, VIP government officials as well as foreign delegates.
However, as the Basantapur area lies in ruins following the earthquake, this year there has been some apprehension among the public regarding the logistics of the Jatra. Nevertheless, Hari Parasad Joshi, Chief of Kathmandu's Guthi Sansthan, the body responsible for organizing the Jatra insists that the Jatra will be carried out as per the traditions without much alteration to the plan.
Biggest challenge
"As organizers of the Indra Jatra, the only challenge that we are facing following the earthquake is the route. Some of the roads and even more so buildings, monuments as well as houses have been hampered by the disaster. We need a minimum of 11ft width to pull the chariot through the streets. However, since there are many structures using tekas to support the infrastructures, we have found that there are some places that don't have the required space. Still we have decided not to change the traditional routes. They have been followed for centuries and we believe it's our responsibility to maintain them," says Joshi.
The plan
Joshi further explains, "The members of the government, our institute as well as the police and army are all very sensitive towards the safety and security issue. We have been running around for days now trying to come up with a valid solution and we believe we have got it. We are enforcing technical teams from the army and police to assess the tekas which may be blocking the path. They began the evaluation from Wednesday. The technical team will then try to place the tekas in different positions, one that will allow the chariot to pass. All this is being coordinated and financed by the Kathmandu Metropolitan City office."
Public concern
Everybody is up for the celebration of Indra Jatra. In fact many like Govinda Shrestha who has a shop in Basantapur believe that more bad luck may befall Nepalis if they do not keep up this tradition. However, there still are some concerns. There are some sectors of the community who believe that pulling the chariot through the area might put the already weakened nearby houses in danger. Pramila Maharjan owns a souvenir shop in Basantapur and she explains, "I know for a fact that there are many in the community who suggested that we carry the chariot then pull it around. At a time when so many buildings are fragile especially in the Jaisidewal side which also falls on the route, we think that will be a safer option."
Joshi from the Kathmandu's Guthi Sansthan admits to have contemplated this option after some locals from the community voiced their worries. However after assessing the condition of the buildings which fall on the route, he says the army and police's technical team are confident the chariot can be pulled as per the traditions. He adds those pulling the chariot will also be instructed to work with caution. Further in case of emergencies, as always this year too there will be the presence of the army and armed police force.
VIP viewing
Over the decades many royalties, high ranking government officials and foreign delegates have stood inside the splendor of the Gaddi Baithak and witnessed the Indra Jatra procession. In fact as per the tradition, the head of state has to give permission from the balcony of the 19th century building to begin the Jatra. This year though, following the destruction of the Gaddi Baithak, the VIPs are set to witness the procession from the ground itself. Joshi explains that there will be a tent erected on the south side of the building.
Attendance of the Goddess
Goddess Kumari has always been an integral part of the Indra Jatra ceremony and the organizers insist that this year shall be no different. Even though the Kumari house suffered a couple damages of its own during the earthquake and it is supported by tekas on the outside and inside, it's been confirmed that the Goddess Kumari is still residing there. The building has been deemed safe as well. So as per the tradition she will be carried out of her house at the beginning of the procession.
However, the 500-700 people feast that used to be hosted by the Kathmandu's Guthi Sansthan for the priests, other people concerned with the guthis as well as the mahane (those who do special work during the Jatra) prior to the main day will not be held inside the Kumari house this year. Instead they will host this feast at the open space in Basantapur.
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