In Republica’s second Ethnic Fashion, we bring one of the common leg adornments, popularly known as “kalli”-s. You may remember it as a big bangle, which is worn around the ankles instead of wrists. And usually, Hindu sadhus and babajis (spiritual mendicants who are male) are also seen sporting such kalli-s.
Tharus, Dhimals, Jyapus, Bara Gaunles, Bahuns, Uranws, and Rais – belonging to both caste and ethnic groups of Nepal – wear these ankle bangles. Like many ornaments, these anklets have mainly aesthetical purposes.
According to traditional trends, ornaments are mainly worn during festivals and auspicious ceremonies. And no different is the use of kallis. Dhimal women mainly put on such leg kallis during ceremonies such as weddings and Ashare Puja (sowing season’s ceremony around May/June), while women of the Uraon community, which is dominantly known as Jhangad, wear “kada”-s during their festivals like Karam Puja, Jatara, and Sharhul.
Kalli-s are also worn when women go to market places, mela-s (fairs) and while visiting their parental families and relatives. Once used as a daily adornment, such ornaments are, however, put on for only special occasions these days.
“Also, the rocketing price of silver and the uneasiness created by the anklets if one has to run or briskly walk for longer distance has decreased its use,” says Bechan Uranw, secretary of Nepal Uranw Ethnic Academy.
Designs of kalli-s also vary among communities. The pair adorned by the Dhimal and Uraon communities is hollow inside, which is much lighter and easier to wear. The rear ends of the kalli-s are decorated as per one wishes while the main body is usually plain.
In the Tharu community, there are generally two types of kalli – Gadaru and Phopharu. Gadaru kallis are solid and heavy. Lighter ones like those found among the Dhimals, which is hollow inside, is known as “phopharu.” Among Tharus, the Rana Tharus have their own kind of kalli known as churuwa, which is bigger in breadth than the above mentioned kallis.
Kallis are usually made of silver and white metals.
They are known as “kara” in the Tharu community and “kada” among the Uranws. A woman of the latter group puts on kada around their ankles, just below where they usually etch tattoos. Most women in this community tattoo their arms, hands and legs. Girls above sixteen can put on kada whether she is married or not.
Like kada, there is another foot ornament used by Uranw women, known as “padai”, which is different in design and structure. It is flat and should be made exactly according to the foot size as it does not have any lock system like in kalli. Unlike kada, which is made of silver and white metals, copper can be used to make padai.
Kalli-s are also worn during religious ceremonies. In the Jyapu community of Kathmandu, it is also worn by children, especially girls. After a girl is married, she doesn’t have to wear kallis, which is replaced by “pauju.” In the Brahmin (Bahun) community, kallis are limited to young infants. And it is mandatory for members of one’s maternal home to bring silver anklets for newborn infants during their “pashni” (“rice-feeding” ceremony) rituals. There is a popular belief that the metals used in such ornaments keep evil spirits away from the children.
Different from other plain forms of kalli-s is the “kadey” (thorny or spiked) type used by Rai women of east Nepal. Besides females, babies also are adorned with kalli-s during special occasions like their nawran/nwaran(baby’s naming/christening ceremony) observed by Puma Rais.
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