The main part of this festival is pulling of the chariot of Seto Macchindranath, revered by Hindus as well as Buddhists, through the oldest part of Kathmandu, including Thahiti in north and Lagan in south. [break]
Seto Macchindranath is considered by Hindus as an incarnation of Lord Shiva, while Buddhists see him as a form of Avalokiteshvara. “It is our glorious culture,” says Swayambhu Bajracharya, a local resident of Macchindrabahal, who also served as the coordinator of Seto Machhindranath Chariot Construction Committee for three years. “We have been celebrating this culture for ages.”
Full of symbols
The festival of Seto Machhindranath is full of symbols. From the way the chariot is constructed to the way it is pulled through the core area of Kathmandu, almost everything symbolizes compassion and virtues of the humankind.
The chariot of Seto Macchindranath at Bhotahiti being pulled towards Asan on Thursday. (Photo: Bijay Rai)
For instance, length of an average human hand from elbow to the tip of middle finger, which is approximately 1.5 feet long) is very important in construction of the chariot. Its height should equal the total length of 32 hands. The rope used in pulling the chariot should be 32 hands-long.
“We have to use the length of 32 hands in constructing each and every part of the chariot,” says Bajracharya. “It symbolizes 32 virtues expected from an ideal woman.”
At a time when finding a woman with all 32 virtues has become increasingly impossible, significance of pulling the Machhindranath chariot, which is believed to have symbolically boasted of all 32 virtues, has become more important, says Bajracharya.
The locals are expected to complete the procession of the Machhindranath chariot within just three days, which again symbolize three different parts of the universe, namely the heaven, the earth and the netherworld.
“Almost every ritual is performed for the welfare of the humankind,” says Bajracharya. “But, we celebrate Seto Machhindranath festival praying for the welfares of the inhabitants of all the three parts of the universe.”
The Seto Machhindranath chariot pulling procession begins from Tindhara Sanskrit Pathshala at Jamal of Kathmandu, which is believed to be the place from where the lord Macchindranath originated.
On the first day of the procession, the chariot is pulled through Ratnapark, Bhotahiti and finally to Asan. On the second day, the chariot is taken to Makkhan through Indrachowk. On the third day, the chariot is taken to Lagan.
Although the chariot is supposed to be taken to Lagan from Jamal in three days, it sometimes takes more than three days, sometimes even one week. “The chariot may break down on the way,” he explains. “This is why we sometimes need more than three days to complete the procession. But we cannot leave the chariot midway. We have to take it to its final destination.”
Bad omens
The locals believe that if the top of the Macchindranath chariot falls to the ground, a tragedy might befall on the nation, the head of the state or the people.
In April 2008, the Seto Machhindranath chariot fell to the ground in Ratnapark in Kathmandu, which the locals believe led to the abolition of the 250-year-old monarchy by the first ever meeting of the now-dissolved Constituent Assembly (CA).
“It has happened several times in history,” says Bajracharya. “During the reign of the Rana rulers, Dev Shamsher was forced into going on exile in India after the Seto Machhindranath fell to the ground.”
The locals believe they cannot avoid what is inevitable. But, they say they try their best to avoid the fall of the chariot. However, as Guthi Sansthan, a government body that governs all social and religious trusts, is unable to provide nine types of wood, including Chap, Chilaune and Aaru, necessary for constructing a strong chariot, due to degradation of forest, the locals say they are finding it difficult to build a strong chariot.
The oldest festival of Patan
It is a festival season for the ethnic Newar people of Kathmandu Valley. Bisket Jatra, the festival that is celebrated to usher in the Nepali New Year, concluded last week. Seto Machhindranath Jatra, which began on Thursday, will continue a couple of days. And now, the Newars, particularly of Lalitpur, are preparing for the one of their major festivals, Rato Machhindranath Jatra.
In this 2012 photo, priests are seen preparing the idol of Rato Machhindranath at Machhindra Bahal, Patan. (Photo: Keshab Thoker)
Rato Machhindranath is venerated as god of rain and agricultural productivity and is revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike.
The festival, which starts every year on the first day of the bright fortnight in the month of Baishakh (April/May), just before the start of monsoon season, is popular among the farmers as they believe that worshiping the rain god would bring plenty of rainfall, thus, ensuring increase in agricultural productivity.
According to Bhakta Raj Rai, a senior administration officer at Guthi Sansthan, a government body that regulates all social and religious trusts, informed that the construction of the chariot for the Rato Machhindranath will start from April 27.
“The festival formally starts from April 26 with the worshiping of the Rato Machhindranath. Next day, the construction of the fascinating chariot, which needs great skills to complete, starts,” Rai informed. The heavy chariot made up of woods can be moved around only with the effort of scores of people.
The jatra begins from Pulchowk and the chariot passes through Gabahal, Hakha, Sundhara and Lagankhel.
The festival ends on the fourth day after the chariot reaches Jawalakhel. On the last day, a bhoto, a jewel studded vest, is held up before the crowd in the presence of the head of the state.
Traditional musical instruments, folklore enactments, cultural dances, pushing and shoving for pulling the chariot containing the idol of Rato Machhindranath, enhances the grandeur of the festival.
The festival that continues for around two months is one of the oldest and the longest festival celebrated in Patan.
The legends indicate that the jatra has been taking place in Nepal from 500 hundred years.
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