You are here to celebrate Everest Diamond Jubilee. Do you have any special message for Nepalis and mountaineers around the world on this special day?
Yes, I do. First of all it’s a great honor for me to be here again in beautiful Nepal. I have very good memories of climbing and mountaineering here. Nepal has many of the most beautiful mountains in the world, and of course the highest, Sagarmatha. We are here to celebrate the 60th anniversary of its first ascent, which was a great achievement in mountaineering history. There are so many beautiful mountains besides Everest to climb here in Nepal.
This year alone, 520 climbers have reached the summit of Everest. We get to hear of ‘traffic jams’ on Everest. Is Everest an easy climb these days?
I know that the number of climbers has increased dramatically in the last few years, to up to 500 summiteers a year. Of course, it’s the highest mountain and it attracts people from all over the world. My concern is that it also attracts inexperienced people. And I think if you want to climb Mount Everest, you first have to have some experience on 6,000 and 7,000 meter peaks in Nepal. Get experienced with altitude, of climbing in snow and ice, and in using harness and crampons. If you have these experiences, then you should think about the Everest.
There are some reports suggesting that a ladder might be installed at the famous Hillary Step. How do you take this idea?
There are two standard routes to the summit of Mt Everest. One is from the north (Chinese side) where there has been a ladder on the second step for more than 50 years since the first ascent from that side. On the south side, there are so many climbers these days that you experience dangerous delays and congestions at the Hillary Step, which is far above 8,000 meters. And, that’s especially dangerous for all the Sherpa people helping climbers. So, first of all the climbers must be more experienced. Second, a ladder can be a solution to avoid this congestion. But not on the top Hillary Step. It must be to the side so that the Hillary Step stays as it is.
Will not it end the exclusivity of Mt Everest?
Like I said, there has always been a ladder on the Chinese side. Everybody is using it. The ladder is not supposed to make it easier. It is not a substitute to the Hillary step. So there are two routes: one for going up via the Hillary step and second for going down by the side of the Hillary Step.
Are there any safety concerns regarding this issue?
Safety will increase if people climbing Mt Everest have more experience, have been at high altitude before and know how to use their equipments. That’s very important. It’s also good to have a rescue team of experienced Sherpa climbers up there. If there are many people going up, they can limit mountaineers.
Your organization also lobbies for the preservation of mountain environment. Is the environment of Mt Everest under threat?
Protection of mountain environment is very important. It’s the most beautiful landscape in the world and it’s also vulnerable. All mountaineers should bring back their garbage, especially the human waste. There are systems in place at other mountains like Mount McKinley in Alaska. Everybody is forced to bring back all the waste, otherwise they are fined. A lot of garbage has been taken off Mount Everest and it’s much cleaner than it used to be. But the increasing number of people is something that has to be carefully managed.
What is your suggestion for Nepal government, tourism entrepreneurs and mountaineers for protection of the mountain environment?
It’s important that you don’t leave any waste, and that’s very easy to do. Just bring back all the waste you have, including human waste. The other thing we should be careful with is cutting trees within the national park.
The Everest region is famous for climbing and trekking. How could Nepal diversify the Everest area to develop it as a tourism destination?
It’s such a beautiful place and it’s a great place to go. It’s a national park. It’s very important not only to protect flora-fauna but also the local Sherpa culture. If this can be done, alternative tourism avenues can be opened.
How can we support local communities to achieve sustainable development of mountain areas?
It’s important to make sure that everybody in the national park obeys rules. For instance, tree planting projects are being initiated. Last Sunday, we planted some new trees in Khumjung village, which is very good sign. Hopefully, many more trees will be planted. The other important thing is take care whenever people there pose a threat to the environment. But, if you avoid pollution of water streams and tracks, I’m sure it’s possible to increase the number of tourists visiting Khumbu region.
We do have other famous mountains besides Everest. What could Nepal do to promote them?
There are many mountains above 8,000 meters, all beautiful mountains, but most of the attention naturally goes to the highest mountain in the world. I understand that Nepal will organize Diamond Jubilee events to commemorate the first ascent of the other mountains in coming years. So there will be a lot of attention and promotion of these mountains.
Once, climbing and mountaineering were a part of Olympics. As your organization identifies itself as a sports organization, what are you doing to get it back in Olympics?
There used to be an Olympic Award back in 1930’s for mountaineering achievements, and also in early 50’s. UIAA has been an IOC member for a decade. Now the IOC focuses mainly on competition sports. UIAA is the governing body of one of the winter sports, which is called the ice-climbing competition. It’s a small sport and we are working to develop ice-climbing as an Olympic Sports within eight to 12 years.
Your last words on Nepal?
I see a good future for mountaineering. It’s important that Nepal promotes its other beautiful mountains (besides Everest). There are over 1,300 beautiful peaks in Nepal and the majority can be scaled. The unclimbed peaks meanwhile continue to pose challenges of their own.
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