Bhaktapur is famous for its medieval art and architecture, colorful festivals, traditional dances, and its typical Newari lifestyle. Also known as the cultural capital of Nepal, it is one of the country’s most famous tourist destinations. Since it is just 11.2 km from Kathmandu, it is included in a half-day sightseeing package by travels and tours operators. The fact that it lies on the way to many other famous tourist hot-spots like Nagarkot and Dhulikhel has also helped the tourism sector in Bhaktapur.
Normally, tourists are required to pay NRs 1,100 to enter Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Tourists from SAARC countries and China need to pay only NRs 100, but they have to show their passports to prove their nationality. Bhaktapur municipality has installed two entry points in Bhaktapur Durbar Square area and tourists can enter Bhaktapur Durbar Square legitimately only via these points, but there are various other ways to enter the Durbar Square without catching the eyes of the concerned authorities and guards. Plus, these entry points open after 7 AM and remain open only till 6 PM. Since there is no one stationed in the square to monitor the flow of tourists between 6 in the evening and 7 in the morning, many tourists illegally enter the Durbar Square at this time.[break]
When I was there recently with some friends, we started talking to a local regarding the monitoring of tourists entering Bhaktapur Durbar Square. He mentioned that some hoteliers of the area were taking advantage of the loophole in monitoring mechanism by bringing in tourists via secret routes in wee hours of morning or late at night. Such tourists are told that they won’t have to pay an entrance fee if they stay and dine at that particular hotel. Tourists happily agree to it since it saves them money. It is not just smaller hotels that do so, but many bigger hotels too, especially during off seasons. The officials at entry points claim to deploy guards to check illegitimate tourists, but we never came across one during our two-day visit to the square.
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Such instances are not limited to Bhaktapur Durbar Square. On numerous occasions, I personally have witnessed tourists roaming around in Kathmandu Durbar Square without paying the required fees. Just recently, one of my friends told me how he managed to smuggle his friends into Kathmandu Durbar Square via roads where he knew there would be no officials. Although I responded to his tale with a smile, I felt nothing positive about it.
It is not just the locals and businessmen who are to blame for this illegal entry of foreigners, the government is equally responsible. The concerned authorities have been unable to utilize the funds collected from entrance fees. Locals complained that even after taking NRs 1,100 from tourists, they are not provided with any facilities except the majestic views of temples, palaces, and local culture. There are no proper public toilets. There is one tourist toilet near an entry point, but that’s not sufficient. If you are roaming around potter’s square and feel like going to the toilet, then you have to come all the way to the main square, which does not make sense.
Locals suggested that after taking NRs 1,100, which some regard as a big sum, tourists must be provided with at least a small memento, may be a small keyring with Nepal’s map on it, or something made locally, which would remind them of their visit. Many tourists prefer to stay in Bhaktapur as it is cleaner and more peaceful than Kathmandu, but nowadays, Bhaktapur has not been able to live up to its famed cleanliness. As in Kathmandu Durbar Square, there are no rules prohibiting big vehicles like tractors and tippers from entering the Square. We ourselves happened to come across two tractors belching out a lot of smoke and dust near the Taumadhi square area during the half hour we spent near Taumadhi.
Some local businesspersons also complained that as NRs 1,100 NRs is a huge amount, the flow of tourists (except from SAARC countries and China) has reduced tremendously. This has negatively impacted their business. According to them, either the amount taken from tourists should be justified by giving them facilities, or the fee should be decreased. If the entry fee is low, no tourist will enter via secret ways since they don’t like cheating the host government either.
In any case, fixing an entrance fee is a difficult task. You never know what the right amount is. But whatever amount you take, you must be able to justify it to locals and tourists. In return, it is the duty of locals to support the concerned authorities by acting as unofficial guards. If the locals try to fool the concerned authorities or vice versa, it will benefit neither in the long run.
The author is an MDeVs graduate from Kathmandu University
Bijay.kumar.shahi@gmail.com
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