Roots Eatery is one of those joints that is neatly tucked within the labyrinth of our city, Om Bahal, near the Freak Street area, to be more specific. The restaurant is surrounded by buildings that are being reconstructed post the quake. There is a miniature version of a Stupa and a well that dates back centuries on its side and Roots Eatery too comfortably blends in with the background in its Nepali architecture inspired building.

But once you have spotted the location and stepped into the restaurant it’s a different story. One of the most impressive things about Roots Eatery is their modern rustic interior décor. Niroj Maharjan, owner of the restaurant, credits his brother for the designs.

They apparently collaborated with ArtLab for the decoration of their walls. They have even collected things like old Pepsi iceboxes and turned them into décor pieces. The restaurant is only limited to a single floor but it makes quiet the impact on guests. Later, we even learned that they have custom made crockery.

“We ordered the designs of our plates, bowls, and cups from Thimi,” shares Maharjan, “The whole point of our restaurant is to make the most of our local resources and help our own community.”

He confesses that the reconstruction process around the restaurant affects their business. While a fair bit of their parking space has been taken over by the construction materials, there have been occasional complaints of all the noise as well.

However, the Maharjan brothers, who are locals of Om Bahal and have had family there for decades, insist they want to contribute in their own way to their community. Thus Roots Eatery has turned into a bit of a local coffee place. 

The restaurant doesn’t tend to have large crowds or rush hours but there is a steady trickle of customers throughout the day. It has a mellow vibe to it. Those looking for a comfortable space to eat and not be disturbed by hordes of people will surely enjoy the place. 

Then, there are the reasonable rates. For example, you can enjoy a fulfilling cheese, egg sandwich for just Rs180 and a chicken soup momo for Rs 190. It’s clear that the restaurant isn’t trying to make anything fancy. Their aim seems to be to turn staples that already appeal to the Nepali palate into sumptuous dishes. 

Whether you are in the mood for breakfast, lunch or dinner, you shall see familiar items on the menu. The same goes for whether you want to get some coffee or catch up with friends over some drinks, cocktails or otherwise. Roots Eatery serves all with a touch of simplicity. 

Their kitchen in-charge is known to ask around for feedbacks and accordingly even alter some recipes. The jhol momo, for instance, has been changed into soup momo and the difference is apparent. The liquid base of their momo is thicker and more meatier, a slight twist that makes it a great option for these freezing January days. Add to that, the momo is served with homemade hot sauce.

Their hot and sour soup is also another dish you must taste. The soup comes in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options but unlike regular soups this one comes with sautéed chunks of veggies and chicken pieces. When you dip your spoon into their custom made deep soup bowls, this is bound to come as a surprise at first but you shall find it to be a pleasant one. The soup leaves you with a slight spicy tickle in your mouth. We would highly recommend that you squeeze in some lime that they offer on the side. If you like, you can have the soup with an egg as well.

“After opening the restaurant, we quickly realized that we don’t have to rely on foreigners,” says Maharjan adding that he is confident that businesses can run by catering to the locals alone, thus the extra effort to include popular snack and savory options.

Since they serve dishes that cater to local people, you shall find everything from sadheko sukuti to crispy chicken, all the things one is used to being comforted by. The latter i.e. crispy chicken, in particular, lives up to its name. You can enjoy the crunch as well as two varieties of sauce at just Rs 230.

Roots Eatery has been quietly evolving in its local corner. It seems sometimes you don’t need to overthink your concept. The no-fuss vibe has its own appeal. Those who have spotted the restaurant have come to appreciate it for its simplistic and economical offerings. In fact, they might as well as be on their way to build their brand around it.
The restaurant is open from 9am to 9pm.

 
• locally
 
• yours