Ancient palaces stand modestly behind cigarette shops whilst sacred temples host an assembly of street vendors, devotees, and sleeping rickshaw drivers.
The endless labyrinths of the city weave out a historical narrative that is captured in hectic modernity. [break]
City dwellers appear to move in a vibrant parade of chaos whilst the legacy of past centuries remains in the beautiful carvings of temple roof struts. It is as if the old part of Kathmandu has struggled to assert itself against the present life which barges indifferently around it. But the countless artifacts continue to punctuate the unsystematic streets even if they retire in some unexpected places. It seems that the hidden treasures of Kathmandu are encouraged by the intimate presence of pedestrians, and as a result, they appear with exuberance.
Yet the architectural opulence of Kathmandu forms a stark contrast to the poverty which somberly decorates the meandering streets. Below the cramped march of workers in New Road, women and children sleep on the dusty floor in the midday heat; and old men bow to the ground with their palms outstretched. The inequality of city dwellers is shamelessly exhibited before the slow-paced spectator; and all of the senses are overwhelmed by the close proximity of human needs. The pedestrian’s stride is interrupted by the touch of pleading hands which arise from the ground where unclean faces beg to those running to appointments or heritage sites.
Cara Woods from Australia recalls an incident near Durbar Square.
“As I walked around a corner, I saw a young girl without limbs on the pavement. She was crawling in an attempt to outstretch her severed limbs to grasp on to the clothes of people passing by. As I approached, I tried to get around her, but she caught my skirt and wouldn’t let go. Her desperation revealed the callous nature of poverty in Kathmandu, and it changed my perception of life here.”
The urban landscape is a magnet for those who seek to improve their lot, and Kathmandu is the centre of economic negotiations. Entrepreneurial spirit seems to cling to everything. The polluted city is filled with the erratic sounds of bargaining and the securing of business contracts over cell phones.
However, aside from the fruit sellers and vendors, there is an invisible world of unconventional markets which are open to pedestrians who are close enough to hear the transient whispers of bizarre salesmen.
Matti Winters from Germany admits that he has been propositioned by strangers offering all kinds of illicit services to him.
“I often walk from Chhetrapati to Thamel, and men always come up to me and whisper, ‘Do you want something? Hash, marijuana, ecstasy.’ But one of the most disturbing offers came from a man asking me if I wanted to pay for sexual services from him.”
It is clear that the city can be ruthless, and the race for prosperity leaves some people behind. At the end of every working day, people remain on the fading streets in the hope of securing a few Rupees after their competitors have gone home. Someone walking through Kathmandu at night can discern the sleeping figures of women in doorways; exhausted but too poor to pack away their stalls of cheap cigarettes.
By evening, pedestrians will also be approached by young boys who linger in between the dim lights of taxis in order to secure enough money to fund their habit of sniffing glue.
Sudip Phuyal explains, “In Kathmandu, there’s an unemployment problem. Many people walking the streets are jobless. They have no responsibilities, so they bother people. The boys sniffing glue have little hope and opportunity, so they resort to intoxication. It must ease the pain of realizing that that another day in the city hasn’t fulfilled the promise of wealth that they thought it would.”
But beyond the harsh prevalence of poverty, pollution and crowds, Kathmandu has an alluring personality which remains intact. The streets are constantly walked by many people, and their choice to do so, despite the perils of broken roads, erratic transport and crowds, shows that people want to get close to the wonders of the city. It seems that when the speed of life is slowed down for the pedestrians, the foreboding chaos of Kathmandu is broken down into a comprehensible rhythm which is rich in culture, history and vivacious life.
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