KATHMANDU, Dec 20: About 20 meters north of Janakpurdham’s Rajdevi Temple in Dhanusha, a turn west into a narrow alley reveals an unlikely sight—plastic chairs packed with people. The crowd itself tells the story of the fried fish served at this modest eatery. Once a local favorite, its fame has now spread beyond Janakpurdham, drawing food lovers from Kathmandu and across the country.
A makeshift shed held up by bamboo poles, plastic chairs and old wooden tables under a tin roof reflects the rustic charm of Madhesh. On a flat pan, fish sizzles slowly over a gentle flame in mustard oil, releasing a flavor deeply rooted in the region’s culinary tradition. Perhaps that is why almost anyone arriving in Janakpurdham feels compelled to taste the fish.
Quiet for most of the day, the eatery comes alive after 4 PM as fish lovers begin to arrive. By evening, the chairs remain occupied until around 9 AM. People from different walks of lives including government employees, traders, and politicians, form a large share of regulars. At the same time, visitors from Kathmandu, Biratnagar, and other cities make it a point to stop by during their travels.
Customers are served fish pieces of their choice along with plain muri (puffed rice), garlic and chili chutney, and onions. What truly sets the place apart is its distinctive spice mix used to fry bhokra fish, giving it a taste many consider unmatched in Janakpurdham.
Four decades ago, Saroj Prasad Sah of Janakpurdham Sub-metropolitan City–4 founded Gharelu Hotel Ananda, centering it on fried fish. Before that, he worked at a clothing shop in the city, struggling to make ends meet for his family. Determined to build something of his own, he began exploring alternatives.
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Poet Somdev once captured the essence of Mithila in his verse: “Pag pag pokhar maach makhan, saras bol muski mukh paan”—a land where ponds, fish, and fox nuts appear at every step, and smiling faces greet visitors. Janakpurdham, dotted with ponds and water bodies, naturally shares a deep bond with fish, both in daily life and conversation.
Saroj, too, was drawn by the thriving fish market and decided to open a hotel dedicated to fish dishes. With no family background in the hotel business and skepticism from neighbors, his decision raised concerns at home and gossip in the community. But with minimal investment and limited risk, he pressed on.
He initially invested Rs 10,000 to buy tables, chairs, utensils, and a stove. Over time, the hotel gained momentum. The taste of his fish drew loyal customers, and Gharelu Hotel Ananda emerged as Janakpurdham’s most talked-about destination for fried fish.
Saroj passed away a year ago, and his only son, Ananda, has since carried the legacy forward. Having helped his father from an early age, Ananda is deeply familiar with every aspect of fish preparation. By serving the same consistent taste, he has ensured that customers scarcely feel his father’s absence.
“Many guests coming from Kathmandu and Biratnagar call to place orders while still on the way,” Ananda told Republica. “I prepare the fish in advance and serve it hot as soon as they arrive. Many also take it packed.”
According to him, the hotel sells between 30 and 50 kilograms of fish daily, priced at Rs 100 per piece. The hotel follows a strict rule: only bhokra fish weighing more than two kilograms is used, sourced exclusively from local ponds.
Such fish, considered the king of taste, have fewer fine bones and offer both superior flavor and ease of eating. Larger bhokra fish cost between Rs 500 and Rs 600 per kilogram. “Customers love mature fish for its taste,” Ananda said. “Those who come once return—and bring others. Though the hotel is tucked away, its popularity comes from taste and purity.”
Ananda’s frying technique also stands out. Each piece of fish is fried separately, with spices mixed to cling firmly to the flesh, ensuring the flavor reaches the plate intact. The spice blend—garlic paste, chili powder, turmeric, and salt—remains unchanged regardless of cost, maintaining consistency over the years.
Earlier ground by hand on stone slabs, spices are now prepared using a mixer—the only notable change. Like the fish, all spices are locally sourced.
Ananda began helping at the hotel while still in school. The income helped Saroj marry off his daughters and acquire land and property in Janakpurdham. Today, Ananda continues the culinary tradition, sharing the same authentic taste with fish lovers.
“With determination, honesty, hard work, and patience,” he says, “there is immense potential to build a strong future right here.”
