You could participate in these centuries-old activities and simultaneously explore the old lanes that such processions (jatras) meander through.[break]
As we near Dashain, we step into the Jatra Zone. It starts with Gai Jatra, at the threshold of Bhadra (Aug/Sep), and extends till Tihar (Oct/Nov).
“Jatras signify the arrival of festivals. In the Newar calendar, a series of jatras kicks off from Ghanta Karma Chaturdashi that falls in Bhadra and continues till Sithi Nakha (Jestha/Ashar),” informs culturist Purushottam Lochan Shrestha.
The Pachali Bhairav Jatra
Held on the fifth day of Dashain, the Pachali Bhairav Jatra tours around several old quarters of Kathmandu, such as Nyapucha, Lagan, Da Lachhee, Jaisi Dewal, and Ko Hiti.
The Pachali Bhairav Temple is located near the Kalo Pul Bridge in Teku in Kathmandu. Celebrated by the Jyapu community, the jatra this year is scheduled for October 1.
Though the main event takes place on the fifth day, when the image of Bhairav is taken to Hanuman Dhoka, the god starts his visits to several other deities from the first day of Dashain.
“This year, we are also going to see the Pachali Bhairav Jatra observed once every twelve years,” informs Sarswati Singh of Hanuman Dhoka Museum Development Committee.
Manindra Maharjan, the son of the priest of Pachali Bhairav, Dau See Maharjan, informs that the particular 12-year-cycle jatra is observed by the Malakar community. It is scheduled this year on the Nawami, the ninth day of Dashain.
Payo Jatra
Observed on the night of the tenth days, the jatra is taken as a victory parade—the concluding moments of victory over evil. The Taleju Bhawani takes a tour around different places of the Kathmandu Valley.
“It’s celebrated in a very grand manner in Bhaktapur, too,” informs Purushottam Lochan Shrestha. It’s believed that people don’t need to consult an astrologer for auspicious time to perform any social rituals such as wedding and bratabandha on this day.
Khamey Jatra
Along with other several street rituals, Bhaktapur is also popular for the Khamey Jatra.
A buffalo that symbolizes Mahishasura, the evil, is kept under the strict supervision of the Taleju Temple’s priest. And on the evening of the ninth day, the Nawami, the intoxicated buffalo is chased around from the Dev Griha of the Mul Chowk in Bhaktapur to the Brahmayani Chowk where it is then sacrificed.
Khadga Jatra
This jatra is one of the other victory parades held on the night of the tenth day of Dashain. The route from Bhadra Kali to Makhan Tole in Kathmandu witnesses nine forms of the Goddess Durga and Ganesh, Bhairav and Kumar on parade.
Out of the Kathmandu Valley, and also known as the festival of swords, men from the Magar and Kami communities parade through Bandipur town carrying swords during this jatra.
Nava Rat
In Bhaktapur, throughout Dashain, a manifestation of Goddess Durga is worshipped. One can enjoy traditional bands perform in front of the temples of the several avatars of Durga. It’s believed that all the manifestations of Nava Durga Bhawani fully emerge within the Nava Durga Gana till the ninth day.
Traditional mask makers prepare papier-mâché of these deities within Ashtami. All the masks are displayed on the tenth day at the Mul Chowk, which are preserved for the later Nava Durga Naach (dance) that begins with the onset of the 10th month of Nepali calendar, in Magh.
Taleju Temples
One of the manifestations of Goddess Durga, Taleju has been the dynastic deity of Nepali kings since the times of the Malla era. Durga Puajs are conducted in all the Mul Chowks of Bhaktapur, Patan, and Kathmandu where Taleju temples are located.
The Taleju Temple at Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square that remains closed to general public throughout the year opens on the ninth day, or Nawami.
The idols of Taleju from all the three cities of the Kathmandu Valley are taken on tour around the Durbar Square from 9 to 11 o’clock in the night of the tenth day, which is known as Vijaya (victorious) Dashami.
In Kathmandu, Taleju takes a tour on a live horse. During normal days, the horse is found in the Bhandarkhal Chowk.
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