I’d ask to know what was I walling in or walling out,
and to whom I was like to give offense.
Something there is
That doesn’t love a wall,
That wants it down.
It’s the wall in mind that is the real divider.”
- Robert Frost
Borders are dangerous.
It was wonderful to touch the bullet ridden stones on the banks of Bhote koshi and the Helvetas Bridge to hand shake the other land called Tibet. Our north face stands firm for our love to the mother land. The high white hills generally guard the façade and the deep water flows through making deep gorges in her way. And rest is history.The fort was some five hour journey from Syafru in Rasuwa district and the deserted trails gave the ring of our own forgotten villages. This part of Rasuwa comes under Langtang National Park. The Koshi was wild in the middle of two tall hills, giving us a narrow walk through. We reached Timure village at noon, a short rest in a small nice lodge and we wind past to the fort. An army base stopped us for queries and the trail was still curving. It took 45 minutes and the view awaiting us was horrific. The wild growing marijuana plants, a deserted custom office, rain torn pamphlets of Prachanda, and the invisible blood stains on the stone walls screamed our nation’s past, present and the unknown future. The hoarding board read ‘You are walking the Tamang Heritage Trail’.
The holes in the fort walls, for the guns, and a narrow look at the Chinese houses through them took us to the time of our old kings and gladiators. Reason can’t justify everything and it can’t justify passion. A deserted land with wild shrubs may seem nothing now but it was everything for those soldiers.
Language must’ve been one of the foremost things men discovered. We were speechless when we met some Chinese men/soldiers on the Tibetan side. Standing in the line of time where the nationality divided us into two sides of the river gave us the reality check of our politicized time. No matter how deep the division and how bloodier the history, we are still connected by the bond of neighbourhood. We couldn’t attempt to cross over the bridge yet the lesson was well learnt. There are still barriers to cross and bond to achieve, we thought, as we hurried to return to the Nepal side from the bridge over Bhote Koshi.
We walked back to Syafru the next morning. Back there, a visit to Chilime hydropower project was inspiring. It was indeed great to learn that it was an all Nepal project, even though it is supposedly the cheapest project of the country. The fort stood by ironically reminding us of the success of our independent endeavours.
Identity is precious, as it is the only thing we are left with when we lose everything in our battle of life. It is so true in the context of Nepal where we lag behind the world by big margins, the divide that started from the time of Rana dynasty. Before that time we were at par with the neighbours. We were a strong trade link for Tibet and ancient Indian states. We used to be the centre for trading salt, wool, and other daily stuff. But we lost our way and it is more visible today, in the era of globalisation, where we have to move ahead neck to neck with the developed world.
The present world of brotherhood that joins us together also demands competitive efforts towards progress. That makes it necessary to have a good relation with our neighbours and rightfully take the opportunity of development of Border States.
Nepal and China have been friends from the time of Araniko and the friendship stands strong till today. There has been a lot of talk about learning from the rapid growth of China and also become a trade route between the two neighbours. However, we can lose our way if we wallowed in too much in the anticipation of help. Nobody can help us if we don’t help ourselves. We should be more open in our thoughts and deeds.
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